Mushrooms and Truffles
Foraging for wild mushrooms in Italy is a local passion. There are over 50 edible varieties, with the most popular varieties are porcini and Portobello.
A few mushrooms essential to great Italian cooking are:
Cremini or Italian brown mushrooms: These are closely related to common white mushrooms, but they're a bit more flavorful. Although sometimes considered a separate variety of mushroom, the Crimini or Cremini mushroom is actually an immature portobello. Marketers have begun to refer to Crimini mushrooms as baby Portobellos as they are picked before they become large.
Portobello mushroom: These are just large cremini mushrooms that have been allowed to grow and develope more flavor than the younger cremini. Their rather large size (about the same as a hamburger patty) makes them perfect for grilling, roasting and stuffing.
Porcini: This is a popular mushroom both in Italy and other countries. The porcini has a distinct aroma reminiscent of fermented dough and a higher water content than other edible mushrooms.
Mushroom Cooking Tips:
Basic Preparation: There is no need to peel or rinse mushrooms to clean them. Simply wipe mushrooms with a damp cloth or soft mushroom brush to remove any dirt particles. The only trimming they may need is the stem end, if it's dry, or the root of the Portabella.
Mushrooms can be sautéed, broiled, fried, or eaten raw. Wild mushrooms require longer cooking times than store bought varieties. Avoid using aluminum pans which tend to turn mushrooms black.
Storing Mushrooms: Keep mushrooms in your refrigerator and used within a few days of purchase. Do not rinse mushrooms and avoid air tight containers- this causes moisture condensation which speeds spoilage. To prolong shelf life, store fresh mushrooms in a porous paper bag.
Truffles
There are two main varieties of truffles valued in Italian cooking- white and black. Truffles grow underground with the roots of oak, willow, hazelnut and some other trees and are highly valued. The smell of truffles resembles the sex hormones of pigs, and locals used to use pigs to hunt for the truffles. The drawback was the loss of some truffles to the hungry pigs that found them. Modern Italians now often use dogs that were trained since puppies to hunt for the truffle sent. Dogs have an excellent sense of smell and are better behaved than the pigs.
The Black Summer Truffle thrives in northern Italy.
It is highly valued for its culinary use and costs up to $670 a pound. Summer truffles don't have as strong an aroma or taste as winter truffles do. They are mainly harvested from June to November. These truffles grow in symbiosis with trees such as oaks, hazels and beech. They can grow to be to 4 cm diameter.
The White truffle or Alba Truffle comes from the Langhe area of the Piedmont region in northern Italy and, most famously, from the city of Alba. Growing symbiotically with oak, hazel, poplar and beech and fruiting in autumn, they can reach 12cm diameter though they are usually much smaller. The flesh is pale cream or brown with white marbling. They can cost between $1000 - $2000 per pound.
Culinary Use of Truffles and Truffle Oil
Because of their high price and their pungent taste, truffles are used sparingly. White truffles are generally served uncooked and shaved over steaming buttered pasta or salads. A common practice is to use truffle oils to add flavor to dishes.
Truffle oils are available at specialty stores, but recently have often become available in many local grocery stores as well. These oils are usually a very high-quality olive oil that has been infused with the flavor of either white or black truffles. These oils are very expensive, but remember they have a very strong flavor and aroma, so a little will go a long way.
Use them within 3 months of openind or extend their life in your refrigerator. They will harden and become cloudy because of the olive oil, but will become clear again once reaching room temperature.
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